A Portside Gam

Roaming around Ireland; Part II

For most visitors, their trip to Ireland will begin and end in Dublin, the capital city. While most guide books describe Dublin as a cosmopolitan city bubbling with beautiful buildings and cultural venues, teeming with multi-lingual tourists, and filled with fun places and activities, most of the people who have traveled with me were "underwhelmed". This city of over a million people, over 25 percent of the country's total population, has no distinguishing landmarks, i.e. Eiffel Tower or Westminster Abbey or Roman Coliseum, but it does offer the unrivaled warmth, friendliness, and gracious hospitality that is found no where else in Europe.

 

The majority of Americans are ill-prepared for a trip here, or elsewhere in Europe for that matter. They are content to climb aboard a bus with 45 or 50 other uninformed souls and follow their escort, like sheep, on a trip that crams two days or more of sightseeing into one frenetic day that begins early and ends late. Visiting Ireland with its colorful towns and majestic scenery in this manner means you get to "see" Ireland but you will not "experience" it. To truly "experience" Ireland, or any other country, you must spend time to get to know the people and the places as more than just a quick look-see or photo out the window of the bus or train.

 

If you spend four full days in Dublin, you will come away having "experienced" the city and those sites/sights that are often overlooked by the "race horse" style of large group travel. With time on your side, you can savor the various attractions that appeal to you and come away feeling you actually understand and appreciate it. Nothing will be a blur if you invest time at each stop.

 

Before you leave on any trip, you should decide why you are going and what you want to experience. Do you want to learn about the long-suffering history of the Irish, learn about the places that play an important role in their history, marvel at the religious and historic sites that define this new (1923) nation, or just gape at the 40 shades of green that make this a unique island?

 

 

One example of the folly of a large group trip is a visit to Trinity College and the incredible “Book of Kells,” the beautiful illuminated ninth century manuscript that contains the four gospels of the New Testament. Due to the fragile condition of the book, only two pages are on display, and most large group tours hustle you into the college library, through three rooms filled with information and photos of the book, and finally into the room with the book incased in a protective glass display case.

 

The sad part is that you are herded through the rooms that would enlighten you about the book at breakneck speed, making for a there-you-see-it, there-you-don't experience. Some say you have seen the page of Kells, not the book, but the tour companies are on a strict time schedule, and they say you can return later. The only trouble is that on such a fast-paced itinerary there is no "later."

 

Going on your own to "experience" this remarkable work of art, created by unknown monks tucked away in County Meath to the north, means arriving 15 minutes before the doors open and spending however long it takes you in those three fact filled rooms to learn "the rest of the story" about one of the world's great treasures. Without that information, you're wasting your time and might as well save your entry fee and buy a book about it.

 

And while you are at Trinity College, take the laugh-filled walking tour given by the students. It is full of fun and facts that will make your visit worthwhile.

 

 

One grossly overrated site is the Guinness Storehouse, which is said to be Dublin's number one attraction. For 14 Euros you visit a slick-as-a whistle floor show that involves an array of interactive video displays that cover the history of the company and how this black magic is brewed. For those of us who have toured Coors or Budweiser, it's the same old sell with an Irish accent. And at the end you are given one pint for your 14 Euros.

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Those of you who visited Guinness "in the good old days" remember when the museum was located across the alley from the new one, and for only two pounds (they used the English pound as currency in those days) you not only visited the exhibit but also received TWO PINTS of the black elixir when the local pubs were charging 2.5 pounds for one pint. Some clever devils made a pit stop at the museum every day just to take advantage of the delightful discount.

 

The only redeeming factor to a visit here is that the crowning glory of this activity is being able to swill your drink, a soft drink if you so choose, in the highly publicized Gravity Bar, perched high atop the Storehouse. With a 360 degree view of Dublin you might feel it was worth the cost and climb. On this trip, not one person wanted to invest the time and money on this attraction. They did, however, want to experience a similar attraction

 

 

For only 10 Euros, you can learn the process of making whiskey at the Old Jameson Distillery tucked away in the Smithfield neighborhood near the Liffey River. Even a teetotaler can enjoy this huge museum devoted to uisca breatha (the water of life). Starting with a short, informative film, the tour runs through the entire process of distilling, from grain to bottle, and is done in layman terms.

 

Our group was greatly impressed with the quality of the presentation and how interesting the guides made it. Add to that a marvelous display and exhibit area with easy to understand explanations about the distilling process, and you have an excellent "traveling experience".

 

Along the way we learned what makes single malt, where whiskey gets its color and bouquet, and the difference between Irish, Scotch, and American whiskey. At the end of the tour, you are able to sample the three whiskeys and learn why they have such different tastes. One couple in my group was die-hard Jack Daniels devotees, but after the horizontal tasting, they switched to Jameson's and the distilling process explained why. American whiskey is only distilled once while Scotch whisky (they spell it differently, too) is distilled twice, but Irish whiskey is distilled three times. Obviously, the third time is the charm.

 

If you are going to tour and taste, think of visiting late in the afternoon, and follow your T&T with dinner. A good choice would be at Gallagher's in the Temple Bar area (see below).

 

 

As with any major city, there are certain places you "must see" in order to understand the make up of Ireland, and they range from world class museums to beautiful parks (called "greens"), ornate and even opulent mansions, and a grim and depressing prison. Unless you are visiting Dublin for six or seven days, you will not have the time to experience all that the city has to offer, but here are some "must see" venues.

Finished in 1795, is an absolute essential in discovering the patriotic heroes that led the way to Ireland's independence from England. Rebel leaders of uprisings in 1798, 1803, 1848, 1867, and 1916 were confined in this grim repository for malcontents and the 1916 Easter Rebellion leaders were executed here. The jail closed in 1924 but has been used in many movies since then and is now a major tourist attraction. The one-hour guided tour is emotionally draining as you learn about these rebels and their fight for the freedom we take for granted. The Irish Heritage card gives you free entry, and the vastly improved video, displays and exhibits makes this a two-and-one-half-hour stop.

 

Thisfronts Dublin Castle and presents an excellent video and the multimedia exhibition, The Story of the Capital, in the basement that will provide all you need to know about the city. In the main entry area upstairs are some amazing works of art and tile decorations that will add several photos to your inventory.

 

Locatedbehind the City Hall is another Irish Heritage property and worth the one hour guided tour if only to see the opulent rooms that rival any others in Europe. Try to time your visit with lunch, as the castle has an award winning cafe with cooked dishes and tasty soups. Since you're in this area, you should work in a short visit to two more "biggies".

 

Thisis the mother of all of Dublin's churches and is well worth the five euro entry fee. The architectural beauty and statuary art work here will keep you on site for at least an hour. Check for the times of Evensong times and treat yourself to some enchanting music.

 

Hereis another marvelous church that now functions more as a museum than a place of worship. The many works of art, including some magnificent burial monuments, demand some serious time, and Jonathan Swift, of “Gulliver's Travels”fame was dean here from 1713-1745 and is featured in several displays. The choir dates back to 1432 and also presents some major league musical matins at 9:45 a.m., with Evensong at 5:30 p.m. on Monday, Tuesday, Thursday and Friday when school is in session.

 

Here is another absolute "must see", as it contains the largest collection of Celtic artifacts in the world, especially gold pieces such as the Ardagh Chalice and the Tara Brooch. The free entry makes it even more appealing, and plan to spend at least two hours here, as the video is a great intro to the various objects on display.’

 

This is out of the center of the city but well worth the effort, as it is one of the best examples of Palladian architecture in Europe. Another Irish Heritage property, this "folly" was a pleasure "summer getaway" for the Earl of Charlemont and is at the top of the enchanting constructions list. The 45-minute guided tour is an eye-popping revelation of surprises. Time your visit with a lunch stop at the Granger pub restaurant two blocks down Malahide Road, where the food is delicious and the prices far less than in the center of the action.

 

While strolling around the two lovely city parks (greens), St. Stephen's Green and Merrion Square, take time to tour the following.

 

MO. 29 LOWER FITZWILLIAM ST. isa beautiful Georgian home. It's like stepping back into the early 1800's, and the video is an added plus.

 

 

One more "don't miss" stop is here.

 

TEMPLE BAR area is where fun and merriment run rampant. This is the place to go to join the excitement with the party crowd, as pubs, suds, and sounds are everywhere. With the traditional Irish folk songs (Trad music) take center stage here, there is also rock, blue grass, country, and more depending on the night and the pub.

 

One problem for the over 50 crowd who often hit the sack around 9:30 p.m. is that most places don't start playing until 10, so these folks wander up and down Fleet St and Essex St. East, Temple Bar's main drag, and pick out the place that suits their musical tastes. There is no cover charge, but the cost of drinks makes up for it. The tunes start as early as 4 p.m. in a couple of pubs, so you can O.D. on the wonderful Trad music long before bed check.\

 

My favorite Dublin restaurant, Gallagher's, is located right in the center of the action, but it's small and you may need to make reservations. Ask for a table in the quieter basement and check out the "boxty" and "champ" menu items. They are centuries old potato-based taste treats that are almost impossible to find in any other restaurant. The fish items are also very good, and the prices are right.

 

Complimenting the “nummy” food is a wait staff that is typically Irish; full of funny quips, a delightful sense of humor, and a commitment to providing the best dining experience possible. In all of my trips, not one person has been dissatisfied with Gallagher's.

 

You can contact Portside at 634-6804 or e-mail:  dgriff@charter.net